North is the Top of the World: North End Brewing Company

I immediately started to research “North End” with the assistance of my long-serving research associate, Doctor Google.

I was 97 minutes into watching the 98 minute long 1997 indie film “North End” before it occurred to me that Colin probably meant North End Brewery. The film was described by Vanity Fair as “an earnest attempt to grapple with outdated mores in an isolated American-Italian community in Boston, The North End is a fitfully successful low-budget first feature. Anchored by a strong cast of newcomers, [2] the gritty tale doesn’t quite hit the target, inadvertently reinforcing the very conduct it sets out to criticise.”

Perhaps the films scarcely believable tag line “When you’re in love… sometimes it’s easier to get into a neighbourhood than it is to get out” should have warned me that the film was not about beer. Rather it focussed on Boston, machismo, sudden violence, relationships, mixed messages and long periods of boredom.

Having wasted 98 minutes, [3] I belatedly turned my attention to the North End Brewing Company. Actually, that is not completely accurate. I’ve been following the meteoric development of North End since it was just a twinkle in the eye of the most fabulous flat cap wearer in New Zealand beer today.

That man would be Kieran Haslett-Moore who today is head brewer and founding partner at North End Brewery Company. I’ve known him for many years and, in addition to his famous cap, he has worn many other hats: cheesemonger, steward, blogger, home brewer, beer judge, foodie, beer writer, beer specialist, commercial brewer, beard guru and now brewery owner. He is also a tremendously nice chap, thoroughly good company and incredibly knowledgeable about beer.

I could honestly sit and listen to Kieran talk about beer and cheese for days. We often have differing opinions on beer – I’m an unabashed fan of American over-hopping while he is such a huge fan of balance and tradition that I believe he should have been born in England. However, he has a laser-like tasting palate and brewing knowledge which puts me to utter shame.

In relatively quick time, Kieran has moved from home brewing to contract brewing (at Townshend, Four Avenues, Fork & Brewer, Kereru and Panhead) to literally being on the brink of opening a brand new brewery on the Kapiti Coast. [4] A reliable informant [5] reports that the shiny North End brewery is now in the testing phase which involves “water brews”. In an ambitious move, their first brew day will be on Monday (also known as the First Working Day after Beervana).

On Tuesday (the Second Working Day after Beervana) North End will host former Malthouse regular and now international brewer of renown James Kemp (known to most as Kempicus) for a collaborative brew. The Kempicus is wasting no time on one of his rare visits back to the homeland because while North End are putting down their first brew on Monday he will be working with Kelly “Frodo” Ryan at the Fork & Brewer on another collaborative brew. [6] Visitors are welcome for both brewing sessions.

North End Brewing Company is the creation of three people – Kieran Haslett-Moore (brewer), Todd Cameron (waiter) and Aaron Wagstaff (chef). Lucky readers may have tried Aaron’s excellent food at the Long Beach Restaurant in Waikanae. I know I have. They have charted the thrills (and challenges) of building a brewery from scratch on social media and it is fantastic that, after over two years of hard work, they will be brewing in their own place on Monday. The brewery will also have cellar door sales and a cafe. Congratulations to the North End crew and best wishes for the future.

Malthouse has three North End beers available, all of which are in cans. North End has joined the growing move towards canning craft beer. I am quietly proud of having predicted this trend in print several years ago. I think canned craft beer is only going to get bigger in the foreseeable future.

North End Amber (4.4%) is described by the brewers as taking “the rich caramel toffee malt character and bright fruity hop aroma of an American Amber Ale and combines it with the drinkability of an English Best Bitter.” These are two of Kieran’s favourite styles. The bitterness is modest (15 IBUs) but the use of three malts and three hops give this beer a complexity (toffee, marmalade and grapefruit notes) not often seen in such a sessionable drop. It was initially designed to satisfy the thirst of Friday night regulars at Long Beach but quickly became a cornerstone of the fledgling North End range. It is rumoured that this beer tastes best with a pork pie on the plate and a whippet under the table. [7]

Described as a New Zealand Pale Ale but listed as North End Field Way APA (5.8%), this hoppy drop bumps up the International Bitterness Units to an impressive 50. Named after a local Kapiti surf break, the beer uses four pungent Kiwi hops balanced with solid malts including a toffee-like malt from Scotland. The beer is hoppy, fruity and zesty, but with a solid toffee biscuit base which ensures drinkability.

The third offering, North End Super Alpha (5%), is styled as a Pacific Pale Ale. This beer also uses four punchy New Zealand hops, including the Super Alpha variety which gives this beer the name. Kieran says he designed this beer to “wash the taste of sea water from his mouth after hauling in his crab pot” which is pretty much the most manly justification for a beer I have seen in a long time. This beer has a hit of lemon grass from the hops and there are a few coriander seeds in there for maximum refreshment. This beer screams to be paired with seafood.

The title of this blog – “North is the Top of the World” – is taken from the Western belief that North is up and that is why the Northern Hemisphere is on the top of maps and globes. In contrast, Chinese and Islamic cultures have argued that the south should be at the top.

Beervana is literally upon us. As noted last week, once Beervana finishes on Saturday 15 August the well-oiled Malthouse team swings back into high gear and will be changing the taps on the hour every hour. At midnight, they will put on a beer called Funky Malty Midnight which is a collaborative Red IPA by Funk Estate and Maltstaff brewing companies. Sunday 16 August is also known as “I survived Beervana Day” or, to the hardened few, “I’m still heading home from Beervana Day.” Malthouse will be hosting “Beer Yum Cha” with the ever popular House of Dumplings and Garage Project.

Next time, we drink to Chef Martin Bosley, for he is a sexy beast. [8]

[1] Straight after Second Breakfast, of course.

[2] It is hard to see how the reviewer referred to Frank Vincent as a “newcomer” given he was born in 1939 and when the film was released had already been beaten to death on-screen by Joe Pesci in Goodfellas, portrayed an aging goon in Casino and, most importantly from a cinematographic perspective, appeared as a gangster in Chuck Norris’ autobiographical television series Walker Texas Ranger.

[3] If watch the credits, an actor is shown receiving a lesson in speaking Italian. As Easter Eggs go, that is pretty far down the scale.

[4] I’ve spent a lot of time up the Coast recently. I was sceptical when locals claimed it was five degrees warmer than Wellington but, if anything, that is an understatement.

[5] As a journalist, I could never reveal the identity of my Handsome Yet Softly Spoken source.

[6] Kelly obtained the “Frodo” nickname while playing rugby in Korea because of his long curly hair, general New Zealandness and large, hairy feet.

[7] The aforementioned rumour may have been started by this blog.

[8] This statement is true but the main intent is get “Martin Bosley sexy beast” up in the Google search algorithm.

Cheers

Neil Miller

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